Pure Gold Kundan Star Ring.
Custom kundan star rings can be achieved in most gemstones but for this project I chose a carveable classic throughout history.
Lapis Lazuli is not a single mineral but a collection of minerals (Lazurite, pyrite, calcite) that work together to create the perfect canvas for our stars to be born on. A milky way of pyrite inclusions naturally appear suspended in a lazurite blue sky with misty patches of calcite.
These rings are crafted using the traditional Indian inlay and setting technique called kundan, a process that employs purified 24-carat gold. The gold is beaten into extremely fine ribbons and carefully pressed into anchor cavities and motifs carved directly into the surface of the gemstone. Each layer of gold is pressed into a pre-cut star form. As successive layers are compacted, the high malleability of pure gold allows the material to fuse into itself through a process called cold fusion, creating a stable bond without the use of adhesives.
Kundan is an ancient technique with origins extending back several millennia, reaching its highest level of refinement during the Mughal period. While kundan settings are still produced today, the application of this technique directly into gemstone is now rare and is most commonly known through historical jewellery held in museum collections. Contemporary examples often substitute traditional methods with glued wire, plated inserts, or gold applied over wax inlay, rather than true kundan fused into the stone.
Once the anchor holes and carved design is packed with gold that has fused into a solid piece the artisan then carefully cuts away the excess gold using a metal engraving tool. An extremely difficult process, he must use enough pressure to cut the gold but not enough pressure to scratch the stone. It is at this point that the final shape is relieved.
The execution of kundan inlay at this level requires exceptional technical precision and material understanding. Each piece is made with a master kundan artisan whose family lineage has specialised in this craft for generations, preserving knowledge that is increasingly uncommon within modern jewellery production.
Each ring is custom made. Variations in price reflect the choice of gemstone, the scale of the piece, and the number of star motifs incorporated into the design.
Contact me with your ring size should you like a quote for your own celestial lapis and gold star ring.
